Super boozy and fruity. Kirsch and passionfruit. In a perfectly prepared flat white it's like Tiramisu. BONKERS.
This incredible coffee comes from a master of processing and fermentation. Allan Hartmann has reserved part of his farm for 'special' processes and experimental fermentation to enhance and 'design' flavour profiles for the sustainable varieties that will give longevity to his and other farms selling into the speciality industry. This is a Caturra variety and he has performed similar experimental processing with Catuai. Both high yielding, disease resistant varieties.
The Hartmann family is considered one of the pioneers of the specialty coffee production in Panama. I was lucky enough to meet them at the London Coffee Festival and their passion and energy was intoxicating and I hoped then that it wouldn't be long before one of their coffees would make an appearance on the Crankhouse list. This year we've managed to source a couple of outstanding coffees and this is the first one we've put on our list.
Finca Hartmann is a family enterprise, and all members of the family are passionately involved in it's management. Each performs a different function in the growth, production, quality control, marketing and tourism aspects of the farm. Coffee for them is a way of life, their culture, their family. Their pickers return every year, as do their buyers, because they like their vision: work together with nature, work the land without destroying it.
Alois Strasil Hartmann, born in 1891 in the region of Moravia, then Austrian-Hungarian empire, came to Panama in 1912 in search of adventure, which made him follow the telegraph lines all the way to Volcan instead of staying in Panama City. He was the first resident of Volcan, where he settled and bought 500ha from the Panamanian government and gave 100ha of this land with virgin forest to one of his sons, Ratibor Hartmann, who was working with the US army in Panama City and turned that land into the Finca Hartmann coffee farm. In 1966 Ratibor married Dinorah Sandí from Costa Rica. Together they raised 5 children, Ratibor Jr, Allan, Alexander, Aliss and Kelly.
One of the many beautiful birds on Finca Hartmann
The Finca consists of several smaller farms/lots, all located between 1300 and 2000 mts above sea level with nearly 100has of forest reserves bordering on the Parque Nacional de La Amistad. The coffee is grown under the shade of native rainforest trees that have been there for many years. The Hartmann's try not to cut trees, they replant native trees and plantains to maintain the natural cycle and a healthy soil and fauna, all with the aim in mind to sustain a long-term quality coffee production cycle.
They grow Catuai, Caturra, Pacamara, Typica, Maragogype, Bourbon and Geisha and process in a variety of ways including recently some experimental extended anaerobic fermentations.
Lot 8 is a Caturra variety and has undergone an extended fermentation. A double process of 8 days in anaerobic tanks under shade cover, then 8 days on raised African beds until 11.5% moisture is reached.
The result is a game changer. Super boozy and fruity and a massive body. If you're a lover of boozy naturals then this is definitely going to tick the box BIG TIME.
Allan Hartmann at the dry-mill (nice Tee-shirt)